Archive for May, 2004

The Offer Letter

Dear Sirs,
I wish to buy a narrow boat.  I wish to live on it, and to take it onto the canals and rivers of Europe.
I recently briefly inspected nb ‘Rosy’, and, at first glance, it seems as though she is a distinct possibility.  She appears to be a sound vessel, and although there are various alterations that I will have to make, they all seem to be possible.
In view of these necessary alterations, I will not be able to meet your asking price, but I would like to make an offer to buy her for �22,500 subject to the following conditions:
One:  That the boat has a current Boat Safety Certificate, and a declaration, signed by the owner detailing any structural work that has been done to the boat since the issue of the current Boat Safety Certificate.
Two:  That the current owner (who, I am led to believe, has owned her from new) walks me through the boat to discuss her construction, equipment and peculiarities.
Three:  That, following this walk through, the current owner (or a suitably experienced alternative) permits me to accompany them on a short (say 30 minutes) cruise to check:
* engine starting and stopping procedures
* the ability of the engine/prop to push the boat through the water and to stop her
* engine noise steering (both forwards and astern)
Four:  Following this walk through, me to entertain the current owner (and partner, if appropriate) for refreshments at a suitable, nearby hostelry.
Five:  That no major faults or inadequacies are discovered as the result of a survey (including an out of water survey) that will be conducted at my expense by a suitable experienced surveyor.  (To this end, I attach at Annexe A a list of my immediate concerns, and the alterations that I would wish to make.  I believe that these alterations are all possible, but I will seek the surveyor’s opinion regarding them, and the impact that they may have upon the safety of the boat).
Six:  Me to be provided with as much documentation as is available to the current owner concerning the operation of the various equipment and systems on board.
Seven:  Me to be provided with suitable documentation showing that I am the sole owner of the vessel, and that all necessary Value Added Tax has been paid.
Eight:  Suitable arrangements can be made for the vessel to remain in your marina (me to pay the mooring fees which I am led to believe will be in the region of �20 per week) until such time as I can move her (expected to be within three or four weeks of the date of purchase).
Naturally, I am willing to deposit funds (I suggest �100) with a suitable person, as a token of my good faith.
I will pay the balance of the purchase price by cash/bankers draft/bank transfer/cheque (as you wish) as soon as the above conditions have been attended to.
I trust and hope that you find this offer acceptable.  I look forward to your early acceptance and comments
Yours sincerely
Bill Davies
ANNEXE A to letter dated 4 Sept 1999
As I wish to take the vessel onto the canals and rivers of Europe, where passing traffic can produce big bow waves and wash, I am concerned about the water integrity of the vessel.
My three immediate concerns are:
1. The front well deck appears not to be fitted with over the side drainage to evacuate water shipped into the well deck.  I would wish to cut such drainage holes, and need assurance from the surveyor that such holes are compatible with the regulations covering the Boat Safety Scheme, or that other suitable drainage arrangements can be made, and the likely cost of these arrangements.  I also need to know about the drainage holes on the well deck that seem to drain into the bilges.
2. There appears to be a problem with the weed hatch which currently seems to be held in place by some G-clamps and mole wrenches.
3. Access to the water tank for cleaning etc.
The structural alterations I would need to make (at my expense, of course – see Condition 5 in my letter) are:
1. Welding over the low-down ventilators and windows on the forward bulk-head, and installing replacement, high-level vents (or roof vents) ducted down low to compensate for the ventilators welded over.
2. Installing steel doors in the forward bulkhead.
3. Installing a second side hatch and slide in the engine ‘ole opposite the current one.
4. Installing a hatch on the stern deck for easy access to the weed hatch.
5. Provision of (diesel powered?) central heating, and increasing the diesel storage capacity (believed to be currently 25 to 30 gallons).
6. Up-rating the electrical system to providing (for example) a source of mains electricity for powering some mains appliances.
(In the end, I changed the well deck into a tug front deck and decided (on the grounds of cost) not to put in the second side hatch .  The survey showed up that the fuel capacity was about 80 gallons (400 litres, which is just about sufficient).

Pearson 30 Review

If you’re looking for a boat to scoot around in on Saturdays, fun family racing, or just to find a good gunkhole for a quiet family outing, the Pearson 30 may be your boat. It seems clear this is what Pearson had in mind a little family cruising boat or day sailing in a boat that could accommodate 4 comfortably and beat the pants off the competition from time to time.

Pearson Yachts introduced the Pearson 30 in 1971 and ended production in 1981. In that period of time more than a 1000 boats were produced with more than 400 of them being built in the peak production years of 1973 and 1974. Hundreds of Pearson 30 still sail the Chesapeake, often by original owners, and many can be found for sale at very reasonable prices.

The hull of the Pearson 30 is constructed of hand-laid fiberglass material and polyester resin, reportedly, with an average thickness of .29″ below the waterline and .21″ to the deck edge. Decks are a balsa-fiberglass sandwich and are typically found to be delaminated and water soaked in the vicinity of the chain plate penetrations. Ballast is 3,500 lbs. of lead molded into an integral keel. As with any fin keel type vessel, attention should be paid to the area of the keel/hull intersection to insure there is no damage from significant grounding.

The hull-to-deck joint on the P30 is an external flange with the two components glassed together and then mechanically fastened with stainless steel, sheet metal screws. This is a method of construction that is particularly prone to damage from impact with piers and pilings and should be carefully inspected. Generally the Pearson 30 is constructed to good boat building standards and holds up well when properly cared for. The only consistently reoccurring problem noted with a majority of Pearson 30’s is sloppy rudders that results from Pearson’s use of Delrin bushings in a fiberglass rudder post tube. Worn bushings are easily replaced without considerable expense. Through about hull number 200, Pearson used an aluminum rudder post that was prone to failure. These boats were recalled by Pearson and retrofitted with rudders with stainless steel post. It is unlikely there are boats with aluminum rudder post but its a good idea to check if the hull number is below 200.

The Pearson 30 was an attempt to meld the attributes of racing boats with those of family cruisers�sort of like rigging a mini-van to race at Indy. This is not the easiest task but Pearson was a pioneer in the racer/cruiser concept and racing boat design theory of her day can be seen in the raked, fin keel, spade rudder, her narrow beam and angular hull form.

The mast is deck stepped with an oak compression post in the cabin. The compression post is glassed into the keel. The mast is aluminum and her rig is single spreader masthead with double lower shrouds. This was quite standard for a sloop of her size and age.

The cockpit of the Pearson 30 is comfortable for 4 adults who are close friends. The tiller steering is likely to make them even closer friends and there isn�t enough room for a good conversion to wheel steering.

In Pearson�s effort to make her speedy, they did not neglect the interior accommodations. Headroom is about 5�10″, she is easy to move about in, and the fiberglass cabin liner makes her easy to keep clean. Opening ports make ventilation easier and provide ample light. The forward hatch should not be counted on for much more than ventilation�a bit tiny. There is plenty of storage in lockers arranged all about the cabin. The head is small but functional. The galley is adequate with a self-contained alcohol stove.

Originally, the Pearson 30 was equipped with the revered Atomic Four gasoline engine. Later models were propelled by a Universal, 2-cylinder diesel. Both power systems are adequate though the Atomic Four in older boats may be nearing the end of a useful life cycle.

Older Pearson 30’s were fitted with gate valves on some through hull fittings. These are prone to failure and frowned upon by insurance underwriters. Any gate valves should be replaced with seacocks with good backing plates. Another bone of contention is Pearson’s use of fiberglass tubes, integral with the hull, to form their cockpit drains. No shut off device of any kind is provided. This is not in compliance with American Boat and Yacht Council standards which recommend seacock shut off devices on all through hull openings below the inclined waterline. Some insurance companies will insist on this modification and it is not an easy or inexpensive fit.

If you�re looking for a good used family cruiser that can still be competitive and fun to race from time to time�look at the Pearson 30. There are plenty of them out there, many are in good shape, and the price can be right. Go find one and enjoy.