VW Eurovan Maintenance Notes

Here is a list of Notes I have gathered from various sources on the net.

Here’s a partial list of maintenance that hopefully has been recently done. If not, count on plunking down some additional cash:

1. Tires. If not correct load rating, you’ll need new. They aint’ cheap.
2. Serp. belt and pulleys. 30-40k interval +/-
3. Timing Belt and water pump, pulleys. 60k +/- interval.
4. Clutch if it’s 5-spd (5-spd best, but if the autos lasted this long, it is probably good. Change the ATF, though.
5. CV joints, shocks, ball joints, transmission mount.
6. Front brakes. The rears last forever on the 93’s.
7. I would read the codes. You need an OBD 1 reader. If it is CA original then it has a check engine light. Other states have no light for 1993. There may be codes even if the light is not there or not lit.

– stay away from the Automatic, unless you really need the auto
– check for piston slap(Most common in 1992 Canadian EV’s)
– check for oil in the distributor cap
– check fuel lines for leaks at cold start (Subject of recall, make sure its done)
– check for rust at rear left body seam
– check for coolant leaks at plastic fittings in block, front & left side
– check CV joints and boots
– check fuel and temp gauges for proper operation
– check headlights for internal moisture
– check heater fan for proper operation
– check exhaust, especially the catalytic converter
– check for exhaust manifold leak
– check plastic coolant pipes to rear heater for leaks
– check service history, brake fluid changes, etc…

late EVs suffer from auto transmission problems (well, actually all automatic EVs seem to be rather delicate) and A/C issues.

the ’01 and up vans seems to have a very high rate of A/C compressor failures

Vehicle Maintenance Schedule

Year: 1999 Engine: 2.0L

Miles 5 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Kilometers 8 16 32 48 64 80 96 112 128 144 160
Engine Oil – change X X X X X X X X X X X
Engine Filter – change X X X X X X X X X X X
Timing Belt – check X X
V-belt/Ribbed Belt – check X X
V-Belt – check tension/condition X X
Spark Plugs – replace X X X X X
Air Cleaner – replace filter X X
Windshield Washer Fluid – check level X X X X X X X X X X
Automatic Shift Lock-check operation X X X X X X X X X X
Brake System – check damage/leaks, pad thickness, fluid level X X X X X X X X X X
Wheels – rotate from front to rear X X X X X X X X X X
Battery – check electrolyte level X X X X X
Pollen Filter – replace X X X X X
Cooling System – check level X X X X X
Automatic Transmission – check for leaks X X X X X
Manual Transmission – check for leaks X X X X X
Tires/Spare – check condition X X X X X
On Board Diagnostics -check Diagnostic Trouble Code memory X X X X X
Door Check Straps – lubricate X X X X X
Headlights – check and adjust if necessary X X X X X
Check Automatic Trans. Fluid and Differential for leaks, level; add if necessary X X
Front Axle – check dust seals, ball joints, tie rods X X
Road Test-check system functions during and after X X X X X
Driveshaft – check boots X X X X X
Air Cleaner – replace filter Every 40,000 miles and 4 years; except Passat and EuroVan, every 2 years
Brake Fluid – change every 2 years regardless of mileage
Air Bag System – check for function and damage after 4 years, 8 years and every 2 years thereafter
The intervals shown in the table are based on vehicles operating under normal conditions.
In the case of severe conditions, such as extremely low temperatures, excessive dust, etc., it is
necessary for certain operations to be carried out between the given intervals. This applies
particularly to engine oil changes and the cleaning or replacing of the air cleaner filter element.

If you belong to Yahoo, join the ev_update, 93eurovans, eurovanowners, ev_update, VW-Eurovan groups. In their “Files” section is a list of pre-purchase checks recommented for a Eurovan. This is what it says:Things to look for in a 92/93 Eurovan:

– stay away from the Automatic, unless you really need the auto
– check for piston slap(Most common in 1992 Canadian EV’s)
– check for oil in the distributor cap
– check fuel lines for leaks at cold start (Subject of recall, make sure its done)
– check for rust at rear left body seam
– check for coolant leaks at plastic fittings in block, front & left side
– check CV joints and boots
– check fuel and temp gauges for proper operation

– misc dash lights out. (Heater/fan controls)
– check headlights for internal moisture
– check heater fan for proper operation
– check exhaust, especially the catalytic converter
– check for exhaust manifold leak
– check plastic coolant pipes to rear heater for leaks
– check service history, brake fluid changes, etc…

I’ll add check timing belt and make sure it’s been maintained. I replaced the timing belt on my 93 Eurovan. The biggest problem was to loosen the large nut on the flywheel. My other VWs which are TDIs allow access to the crankshaft drive pulley without having to loosen a large bolt. There is a special holder available from Zalenda that reacts the load. But even that didn’t work that well. Also you need a extra large torque wrench to tighten the bolt if plan to honor the torque value. That large bolt holding the pulley onto the crankshaft was a problem. After spending a few hours with an air impact, air hammer and propane torch I gave up and ordered a new 600 ft-lb air impact. Zinggg, it came out on the first try. Also check the tires and check the load rating. The Eurovan needs to have tires with a high load rating. Not sure of the ’93s, but the newer ones are 100. I think ’93s are a shade lighting and they’re something like 98 or 99…but check the door jamb sticker. Many unknowing people just go by size and fit tires with a 92 or 93 or 94 load rating and the first pothole you hit you might risk a blowout. Even if the tires are in good shape, if they’re the wrong load rating you probably should replace them. If it has a hard/noisy idle, the engine mounts could be shot too. Rust also is a problem on these cars if it’s in a rust-belt state was wasn’t kept clean after road salting, etc.

The inoperative fuel and temp gauges is a common and known defect caused by a bad solder connection on the instrument cluster. Repair instructions are here:
http://bambergvr6.50megs.com/EV_instrument.htm.

I’ve seen quite a few older EVs with headlamps that look like aquariums If so, it’s a good excuse to get some Euro-spec ones (can be had for $150/pair from eurocampers.com) and improve your lighting. Add a relay harness too and you’ll really get some good lighting.

Your favorite links will become:

http://www.eurocampers.com
http://www.europarts-sd.com
http://www.gowesty.com
http://www.vanagain.com
http://www.parts4vws.com

http://www.eurovan.org

1. Timing belt, as in most vehicles is a pain to replace- my mechanic did mine at 120K miles. Most major service is annoying because of short nose and belly pan.

2. The seats do come out in all models, but with a CL or GL, you can fold both forward and slide 4×8 sheets right in and close the hatch. The rear bed in the MV is a little moe difficult to take out. Really requires assistance, although I do manage to manhandle the bench out of mine by myself. I have a weekender, so one of my middle buckets requires the removal of the icebox and then unbolting the seat base, and the cubbies under the rear deck take about 5 minutes to disassemble with hand tools, so I can have a cargo van in 10 to 15 minutes.

3. All models except the weekender and the EVC have dual A/C units.

4. The tire thing just won’t go away. The tires can be a bear to find, but I have 2 sets mounted on OEM rims. Both sets are NOKIANS. I ue the NRH2 in the summer, and the NRW in the winter. They are both the OEM size (205/65-R15) and proper reinforced construction.

5. Underhood space is tight, but filters, fluids and plugs are all accessible. You need to drop the belly pan to change the oil, so I let my mechanic do it up on the lift. The radiator and front grille assembly pivots forward to allow access to the plugs and wires, and the dipstick and all other fluids and filters are readily accessible from the open hood.

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